New York Fashion Week Fall 2018 Recap

NYFW Fall 2018 – Prabal Gurung

Our political climate, and the responsibility for activism, is influencing the runway now more than ever. Designers are manifesting their powerful voice to signify a call of in regards to the feminist movement, diversity, and inclusion. Fueled by the current movements, #MeToo and #TimesUp, designers are taking a stance; and this was prevalent in many collections this NYFW Fall 2018.

The runway involved an array of garments, styling, facial expressions, beauty, and backdrops in which each designers masterly crafted and showcased through their own interpretations of the current political climate. Notable themes among a vast amount of collections encompassed: the inspiration of women empowerment and strength, the significance of diversity and celebration of inclusion, the hope for a better future; others shifted their aesthetic — displaying subdued, earth tones, as an indication of the hard-working and “unbridled” energy women possess.

On other runways, designs were reflections of designers’ personal experiences. NYC and the concrete jungle lifestyle was a major influence for designers like Tibi and Gypsy Sport. Anna Sui titled her show “Beloved” for her view on the fashion world and what she “dreamed about before I came to New York”. Oscar de la Renta’s “enchant forest” was a story of the creative directors’ past trips, in which they took with Mr. De La Renta himself. This peak into the archive of their personal lives created an undeniable, intimate connection between the label and show-goers.

THEMES

As I watched and studied the lineups, there were multiple themes I identified throughout. Aside from political climate influence, the most distinctive themes included equestrianism, American West, and 70s/80s styles. An abundance of beautiful suits, long coats, relaxed pants, etcetera walked the runways in these exact themes. Moreover, many looks were constructed with wearability in mind for the working men and women – appropriate for the office environment. The pretty, romantic aura of soft silhouettes and florals was another theme recognizable in a few collections.

In regards to specific attire, garments in long coats, faux fur coats, suits, blazers, fanny packs and other waist belts, and equestrian-like trousers walked on countless catwalks. As for prints, expect to see leopard, plaid, and an eccentric mix of prints this fall.

STANDOUTS

Two collections I admired greatly were Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein. Opposed to the more modest collections seen at NYFW, these collections led with a strong artistic aesthetic and message. Marc Jacobs was exaggerated and extreme with bold shoulders, hats, trousers, and belts. Inspired by 1980s haute couture, the designs were mysterious, enticing and cool – undoubtedly much different from anything seen on the other runways. At Calvin Klein, his show was a complete transformative experience straight down to the 6 inches of popcorn on the floor. The themes ‘prairie’ and ‘movies’ were intertwined as a metaphor for movies connecting a country whose center and coastlines seem divided. Filled with fireman’s jackets for men and women, the designs effectively told this message.

Besides these two collections, I have to say my absolute favorite shows were The Row, Sally LaPointe, Michael Kors, Dion Lee, and Zimmerman. The Row was a show of chic perfection with sleek monochrome looks ideal for the sophisticated boss woman. By the way, the designers behind The Row are Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. They stated that the idea for this collection was ‘uniforms and what you can do with them…that increasingly rarely seen phenomenon known as “day clothes”’ (vogue.com). Not only did I fall in love with this collection, but I could 100% see myself wearing almost, if not every look straight off that runway.

What can I say, Sally LaPointe makes me swoon and lust over her collection every season; this Fall ’18 is no exception. Simplicity and chicness were mixed dreamily and the design shapes and textures were equally captivating. There was an array of monochromatic looks that consisted of textures and detailing that made each look effortlessly complete. The designs were stylish and modern with a 1960s influence. LaPointe’s designs were in reference to the enthusiasm and hope surrounding the moon landings that made people look forward to the future instead of dwelling on the past. This collection was all about looking forward – a message in reflection to the current political and social atmosphere.

For Michael Kors, it’s no surprise that his show was an overall fan favorite. With its upbeat, cheerful vibe and mix-match aesthetic, it was a celebration of people of all sizes, shapes, and backgrounds. His designs directly transpired his view that beauty is seen everywhere. There was a fantastic array of alluring prints and the mixing of prints –  which further illustrated his message. No doubt, this was a beautiful collection that I think everyone can enjoy.

Coach 1941 was a perfect mash up of edgy meets Southwest. There were gorgeous leather, shearling, and faux fur jackets and coats, floral print dresses, long skirts, suits, and of course, leather bags. All of the designs incorporated the brand’s iconic feature – leather. With every hue of orange, black, navy, purple, red, and brown there was an edginess, femininity and American West influence that worked so well. Not to mention the vast amount of textures and elements in each piece, the looks in their entirety seemed to be very intriguing, thought-out and put-together. The men’s and women’s looks were equally incredible.

This was my first time seeing a collection from Dion Lee and wow did it grab my attention. The designs had a cross between the practicality and functionality of lingerie and utilitarian military pieces that transformed into strong suits and dresses. This was unexpected and even more unexpected to see it completely work together. Two suit uniforms, in the grey plaid, had brassiere detailing within the blazer and it made me fall in love. All of the designs were simplistic but with a major twist I’ve never seen. I’ll definitely be paying close attention to Lee here on out.

As for Zimmerman, the collection was comprised of the ruffles and frill distinctively known to the brand, but this time more subdued. Unlike the usual bohemian vibe Zimmerman showcases, this collection incorporated the equestrian and American West styles that made it more inclusive – although nonetheless romantic. I’ve always loved Zimmerman because even though the designs aren’t always groundbreaking, they’re undeniably beautiful.

MY FAVORITE LOOKS

Anna Sui

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Coach 1941

Coach 1941

Coach 1941

Coach 1941

Dion Lee

Dion Lee

Dion Lee

Jonathan Simkhai

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta

Prabal Gurung

Ralph Lauren (Spring ’18)

Ralph Lauren (Spring ’18)

Ralph Lauren (Spring ’18)

Sally LaPointe

Sally LaPointe

Tom Ford

Tom Ford

The Row

The Row

The Row

New York Fashion Week Fall 2018 Recap | Decadence Fashion

Zimmerman

New York Fashion Week Fall 2018 Recap | Decadence Fashion

Zimmerman

NYFW has been seeing the first sights of a transformation recently. With designers moving to Paris and designers changing their runway schedules, it’ll be interesting to see what changes the next couple of years will bring. Moreover, I believe the changes will be positive. After all, NFYW is all about the celebration of differences and rolling of the tide.

ALL IMAGES: VOGUE.COM

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